Set up under a natural wave pdf

Set up under a natural wave

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Thesis advisor, Edward B. Thornton’, ‘AD-A331 932’, ‘Thesis (M.S. in Meteorology and Physical Oceanography)–Naval Postgraduate School, March 1997’, ‘Includes bibliographical references (p. 37-39)’, ‘Field measurements from a cross shore array of two pressure sensors to measure waves and eight manometer tubes to measure mean water elevation are used to examine set-down/up across the surf zone. The manometer tubes are connected to differential pressure transducers onshore allowing continuous set- down/up measurements. Flume measurements of set-down/up are also examined. Measured values are compared with numeric set-up values incorporating roller theory describing wave breaking. The model has two free parameters, B representing the vertical fraction of the wave covered by the roller and psi a scaling parameter for wave steepness. Optimal values of both are chosen by model fitting. Inclusion of the surface roller improves the set-up model fit to both beach and flume measurements

• Creator/s: Morris, Bruce J
• Date: 3/1/1997 0:00
• Book Topics/Themes: PRESSURE TRANSDUCERS, BREAKWATERS, SURF

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